Saturday, October 12, 2013

Aligoté from the Côte Chalonnaise

The story goes, Martine Saunier, the famous Burgundy importer, noticed that there were still a couple of cases of the 2006 Bourgogne Aligoté from Danjean-Berthoux, a producer in the Côte Chalonnaise, left unsold. Aligoté is a white Burgundy that people usually enjoy young, though it doesn't necessarily mean it can't age. The wine was showing its age but was still drinking great. She decided to blow out the remaining cases. I got the memo and immediately pounced and bought everything left.

I love Aligoté, including ones with age. But's hard to find aged Aligoté as it's quickly sold and consumed on release. Like rosé, no one ages Aligoté. Though its fruit is light and delicate, Aligoté has high acidity that is responsible for its bracing allure. This sharp acidity also allows the wine to keep a bit longer even though the fruit lacks concentration.

Last night I opened a bottle of this 2006 Aligoté at our local sushi bar. Initially it seemed a bit tired, but as I gulped down half a dozen oysters and more sushi, the Aligoté got firmer. By the middle of meal, the Aligoté--by now opened for half an hour--was rejuvenated and full of energy. I was thinking, for $12, what a buy! And I could afford another order of sushi.

Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine du Moulin Neuf-Danjean-Berthoux 2006 $12.00

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