Saturday, May 12, 2012

Schiava Is Good


This heartwarming wine from Bolzano in the South Tyrol is made by Heinrich and Elda Mayr from their small parcel of old Schiava vines. It's a bit Burgundian, but perhaps more reminiscent of a full-bodied Morgon, with a sweeter fragrance, as well as  brighter and more spicy in flavor.

I brought a bottle of this 2009 Elda Rosso with me recently to the Sardinian restaurant La Ciccia and it was friendly with almost every dish I ordered. But it was most insane with the baby octopus stew with the mild, pulsing heat of the pepperoncino calabrese of the tomato sauce. I was happy drinking a full, luscious Vermentino di Sardegna with it, yet the Schiava was a revelation. Another delicious aspect of the dish would have escaped me were it not for this brilliant wine.

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