Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Roosting at Coi

It was Coi's turn to roost the Bocuse d'Or USA fundraiser the other night. The dinner menu highlighted American heritage poultry, inspired by the legendary chef Paul Bocuse's love for volaille.

Coi's chef, Daniel Patterson, and Manresa chef, David Kinch, teamed up in the kitchen to cook up alternating courses. It was in a way a sort of mano-a-mano between the two Two-Star Michelin chefs. Though their menu was spa-like restrained, there was subtle razzle dazzle in each of their offerings.

Kinch threw seawater as seasoning in his otherwise straightforward shellfish sashimi. Patterson parried by deconstructing a cheese tart. Kinch elevated his next course by bathing a sauteed trout with a sensual marrow juice. Patterson's riposte was a frivolous take on a farm basket, vegetables on a bed of hay, with pecorino for good measure.

Finally, on the main courses of chicken raised by the Bay Area's Soul Food Farm, Kinch's play on layering of textures anchored by a crisped chicken was exemplary, though I think the brilliance of that dish was really the poured chicken juice or "dashi". Patterson regained form with a gorgeous-looking and truly comforting breast of chicken--a dish that would make Paul Bocuse himself proud.

Daniel Patterson before service.



Firethorn (soda)



Mandarin Sour--satsuma ice, kumquat, angostura bitters



An Elemental Oyster



Inside the oyster, creamy and rich



Shellfish with Radish and Apple, a Seawater of Unripe Tomato--geoduck clam and bay scallops



Bottle of seawater of Unripe Tomato



Beet and Goat Cheese Tart (Broken, Inverted) rye, dill






Steelhead Trout with Onion and Marrow "Tears", Chervil Cream



Winter Pastoral--Young Carrots Roasted in Hay, Radish Powder, Shaved Pecorino



Crispy Chicken and Egg Confit...



A Roasted Chicken "Dashi"



Boneless, Skinless Chicken Breast--Wild Mushroom Porrdige, Garlic Confit, Wood Sorrel



Parmesan Donuts--Blackpepper, Quince



It's Almost It--Chocolate, Oatmeal, Orange



Firethorn (Jellies)



1981 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia White Gran Reserva. Awesome elegance and versatility. Very deep gold color. Pear skin, paraffin, and cut apple aromas. Intense mineral and dried fruit flavors. Long and gentle finish. It paired beautifully with everything.



1997 Domaine Hubert de Montille Bourgogne Rouge. It's taken over ten years for this overachieving Bourgogne from Hubert's time to show magnificently. Sour cherry, earthy tea aromas, complicated by anise and clove. Rich dark cherry flavors, unbelievable for a humble Bourgogne at ten years. A lovely pairing with two main chicken courses--counterpointing Kinch's "Dashi" sauce and melding naturally with Patterson's wild mushroom porridge.



David Kinch after service.

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