White with Altitude: A Stunning Wine from Italy's Alps

Deep in Italy's alpine highlands is the winegrowing area of Morgex and La Salle planted at the foot of Mont Blanc in the region known as Vallée d'Aoste. This northern and altitudinal limits (vines are planted at almost 5,000 feet elevation) of European viticulture produce a magical white from the rarely seen Prié Blanc grape variety. This is the only white grape planted in the Alps and is remarkably hardy as it ripens late, seemingly impervious to cold and snow. Yet, the wine that emanates from this grape possesses refreshing delicacy and elegance.

Ermes Pavese established his wine estate in this region in 1999. He focuses exclusively on growing and vinifying Prié Blanc. Other than the local cooperative, the Pavese family is one of the very few producers of this wine. Production is tiny as he farms a mere 1.5 hectares (3.75 acre) vineyard. The ungrafted vines, planted on their own pre-phylloxera rootstocks, are trained in a low pergola to get good exposure. Apparently, the cool, high elevation Alpine terroir serves as protection to root diseases.

And so from the highest vineyards in Europe, Pavese produces something truly stunning. The very first time I tasted his wine I was captivated. Its beautiful fruit, freshness, and elegance are something you immediately want to take home with you: like the stark beauty of the Alps.


Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle Vallee d'Aoste DOC, Azienda Ermes Pavese 2010 $27.00 (Click to buy!)

Wine of the Week: 2006 Monsecco Gattinara

I am absolutely thrilled to find this very lovely wine. There are only a handful of producers in the tiny Gattinara winegrowing region in North Piedmont, and rarely does one even make it to the US. I can’t blame anyone who thinks that only Barolo and Barbaresco make the best Nebbiolo. But if you ever taste Gattinara as good as this superb 2006 from Monsecco, then I am certain you would change your mind.

The northern location of Gattinara is considerably cooler than Alba, while the soils are granite, not clay-chalk as in the Langhe. The resulting wines are higher in acidity and greater in precision, and due to their elegant character, age very long and beautifully. Good Gattinara, one could say, is the epitome of Nebbiolo.

But I do believe that the 2006 Monsecco Gattinara kicks up the quality level a notch. Gattinara is in a privileged site in North Piedmont, particularly suited for Nebbiolo, where it ripens fully in most years unlike in neighboring villages. The 2006 vintage was blessed with a sunny and warm growing season, producing a great Gattinara with the full expression of Nebbiolo in this northerly region.

Rosenthal started importing Monsecco’s Gattinara with the 2005 vintage, which took a while to be released until it finally did in 2012. And now the 2006 vintage is out--an awesome Gattinara that brings back its past glory. Finally.

Gattinara DOCG, Monsecco 2006 $42.00

Tender Crabs at the 'Loin

I've been obsessed with eating crabs since I was a child. Maybe it's instinct or perhaps I was an otter in a previous life. Whenever I hear there's good crab to be had some place, I'm there. Last night we were in a prime neighborhood for crabbing. San Francisco's Tenderloin neighborhood is crowded with Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Thai immigrants who also love eating crabs. It is reputed that  Kim Thanh Seafood Restaurant in the gritty neighborhood's safer reaches near Union Square serves the best crab in the city. I'm always suspicious of such claims, but my interest was peaked. Is this place crab heaven? I'd even settle for something close to it.

The wait for a table to free up was a tease. I lusted at the prodigious tanks teeming with mouthwatering crustaceans. The crabs looked ripped and moved about with grace. And my eyes widened even more at the sight of the large spot prawns floating behind the glass, their legs doing tiny scissor kicks. At that moment I knew the schlep to the Tenderloin was worth it.

 

Coincidentally, the La Paulee celebration was going on at about the same time in New York. To join the celebration remotely, I brought a white Burgundy, a modest 2010 Pierre Matrot Bourgogne Blanc made by the brilliant Thierry Matrot in Meursault, where the original La Paulee is held every November soon after the harvest. A perfect wine with the crab and all the other dishes we ordered. Sharp, mineral and bone dry, it has very good body and depth for a Bourgogne. At just $20 always overachieving, and perfect for a casual place like this.

Our whole crab order arrived on a large plate already broken down in pieces, even the tomalley was scooped out of the shell ready to just be put in the mouth. Seemingly crispy fried, the menu described the crab as salt-baked. Indeed there's no glistening oiliness. This is a well-cooked crab and very tasty, full of sweet meat. Flavorwise it is not on the same level as Thanh Long's but a much better value at about $30, compared to Thanh Long's almost $50 price for a whole crab.

However, the plate of garlic noodles we ordered was disappointing, lifeless with a dominating taste of cooking oil. A far cry from Thanh Long's famous garlic noodles.

Good restaurants have overlooked gems on their menu, overshadowed by the signature dishes. At Thanh Long's I find it's the New Zealand green-lip mussels served with garlic rubbed crostini. At Kim Thanh, on this night at least, the huge spot prawns outperformed the crab. This was the largest spot prawns I've laid my eyes on. I just had some a few days before, but I can't let the opportunity for these godzilla prawns pass us by. They may not be this size next time. I insisted on ordering just a half-pound sampler fresh from the tank. They were stuffed with juicy sweet, firm meat. Several sips of the Matrot white Burgundy went down beautifully with it.

Buy this wine! Bourgogne Blanc, Pierre Matrot 2010 $20.00

Kim Thanh Seafood Restaurant

607 Geary Street

San Francisco, CA 94102

415.928.6627

Comtes Lafon 2010 Burgundies

Domaine Lafon is the greatest producer in both Meursault (sorry Coche) and the Maconnais and one of the very best producers in all of Burgundy. The 2010 vintage at Lafon is very much a repeat of 2009. Stupendous quality. All of Lafon's wines perform at the very highest level. His village drink like many producers' premiers crus and grands crus.

Alas, as always, the wines are some of the hardest to find. Our allocation, which all comes from Lafon's US agent in California, is tiny. We will receive them by end of this month.


Terms: Expected arrival is by end of this month of March 2013. Extremely limited availability. Full payment upon order. Please, no reservations accepted without payment. Limited to stock on hand. We reserve the right to allocate quantities. All orders subject to confirmation. To order email us or call 800.580.8588.


Reds:

Volnay, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2010 $90.00
A baby Volnay-Santenots as this comes from declassified young vines in that premier cru vineyard. In this great vintage, it shows overachieving concentration and the finesse of a true premier cru.


Volnay Premier Cru Santenots du Milieu, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2010 $155.00
One of the top Volnays in 2009. Lafon's large parcel in this vineyard allows him the luxury of sorting severely and declassifying the rest to further improve quality. Plus the parcel is in the best part of the vineyard with rocky soils and high clay content that accounts for the richness of the wine. Poweful and with very good concentration, full of violets and cassis with a smooth, long finish. This will easily evolve over several years.


Whites:

Meursault, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2010 $115.00
Marvelous fat and richness with a crunchiness and minerality that's very lovely. A perfect blend of declassified premier cru and village fruit, it captures Meursault's power and tension.


Meursault "Clos de la Barre", Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2010 $140.00
From a vineyard surrounding the domaine with a base of solid calcareous rock that's penetrated by vines' roots. This is always brilliant and consistent in quality. Shows spectacular layers of fruit intertwined with nutty flavors and minerals. Seductive creaminess on the palate and finishes with extraordinary persistence. Like previous great vintages of this wine this offers outstanding potential. Wine critics usually underrates this Meursault because it's always tight and firm in its youth.


Meursault Premier Cru Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2010 $218.00
Charmes is one of Lafon's top wines and typically rivals top grand cru white Burgundies. From this perspective it is a great buy and very highly sought-after.
 

Wine of the Week: COS 2009 Cerasuolo di Vittoria--Best of Sicily

2009 was a tremendous vintage in southern Italy. The vintage produced some of the best wines in Sicily, including the 2009 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico from COS, the acclaimed estate co-owned by Giusto Occhipinti, Arianna Occhipinti's uncle and early mentor. COS has long been recognized as one of the greatest Sicilian wine estates. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico is their most classic release.

In search of adventure during their youthful days, Giambattista Cilla (C), Giusto Occhipinti (O), and Pinuccia Strano (S), formed COS in 1980 to make wine for pleasure. At that time the three Sicilians were Italy's youngest winemakers.

In Cerasuolo di Vittoria in the Sicilian province of Ragusa in the island's southern coast, the three friends rented their parents' vineyards and began harvesting, pressing grapes, and making wine under their own label. Operating with this independence of spirit, without an oenologist, basing winemaking decisions on experience, intuition, and imagination, COS became a lifelong project of expressing the terroir, passion, and culture of this part of Sicily in its most authentic form.

COS applies biodynamics to viticulture to maintain balance and harmony in the vineyard and to express its character. In the cellar, in order to not impart any characteristic flavors, cement tanks are used in the vinification and the wines are aged in neutral oak casks (botti) and clay amphoras.

Today COS is making wines that are the purest expression of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the only DOCG appellation in Sicily. In their wines we discover that this particular area of Sicily has one of the greatest terroirs, producing wines with indigenous grapes that are as delicious and complex as any you would find from world's greatest vineyard sites.

The 2009 Cerasuolo di Vittoria, made from a blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola is stunning, one of the finest vintages for this classic wine from COS.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, Az. Agr. COS 2009 $31.00 (Click to buy!)

Benjamin Leroux's Overachieving 2010 Burgundies

Benjamin Leroux, the brilliant, young régisseur and winemaker at Comte Armand Domaine du Clos des Epeneaux in Pommard, is quietly making small batches of wines under his own name. The fruit is purchased from small parcels owned by growers whom he closely works with. He's converting their vineyards to organic viticulture, but meanwhile everything is farmed sustainably, or lutte raisonnée.

We have been selling Benjamin Leroux's wines since he debuted impressively in the 2007 vintage. Each vintage confirms the refined quality of his wines from the Bourgogne to the grands crus in both reds and whites. The 2010 vintage, given the quality of the raw material, is marvelous for Benjamin Leroux. Those looking for values in 2010 Burugndies should load up both his Bourgogne Rouge and Volnay. On the humblest appellations Leroux always overdelivers.

Benjamin Leroux's 2010 Bourgogne Rouge is a joy to drink. Scented with cut roses and fresh cherries, with flavors of stunning richness and concentration. Open and expressive, it wears its heart on its sleeve. As in previous vintages, the fruit is declassified premiers crus from Santenay and St.-Aubin. What a bargain!

The Volnay is put together from various Volnay vineyards of which about 60% is from the Volnay Premier Cru Ronceret, and so this is a village Volnay of surprising power!

But for someone who made his name making Pommard, I'm blown away by how brilliant Benjamin Leroux is in crafting white Burgundies. Since starting to make his own wines under his label with the 2007, his flagship wine has been the Auxey-Duresses Blanc. Anyone who wants to check out how good Benjamin Leroux is should simply taste his Auxey-Duresses Blanc. This is a marvelous wine with a richness that hints of its Meursault proximity, but with a sharpness and finesse that recall more a Puligny, especially in the 2010 vintage. The wine comes from a vineyard that borders Meursault, lying on a slope at an elevation of 350 meters facing east/southeast. The sunny morning exposure and stony soils of white marl over a limestone base is an excellent terroir for the Chardonnay vines to produce wines with finesse. This expression is clear in the 2010 Auxey-Duresses, a wine with fragrance and depth and tingling tension on the fruit.


Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin Leroux 2010 $31.00 (Click to buy!)


Volnay, Benjamin Leroux 2010 $55.00 (Click to buy!)


Auxey-Duresses Blanc, Benjamin Leroux 2010 $39.00 (Click to buy!)

The Porcellian

Last night's whole roast pig--a lechon to be exact--bacchanal was in the true spirit of that most venerable final's motto Dum vivimus vivamus--While we live, let us live.

Laurent Perrier's multivintage (1996, 1997, 1999) flagship Grand Siecle Champagne. LP's response to Krug's Grand Cuvee. About 50-50 Pinot Noir-Chardonnay from a complicated blend of many grands crus vineyards, aged at least seven years. Since being launched in 1959 there have only been three winemakers. This release shows stunning freshness and depth of flavors, a clear statement that Champagne is a most versatile drink with any food.

Wow! I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this Swan Oyster Depot seafood cocktail of crab claws and smoked salmon. What a treat from Steve and Tania! Perfect with the Champagnes.

1996 Ployez-Jacquemart Liese d'Harbonville, the flagship Champagne of the house. Mostly Chardonnay the rest Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, vinified and aged in barriques. Less than 500 cases are made. Tightly wound, this was obviously still too young, but it's bone-dry precision, razor sharp flavors, herbal fragrance, and pure energy were nothing short of electric.

With three different Champagnes being passed around, we demolished the plates of fried rolls--Chinese and Filipino styles--without effort.

Ah, Jacques Selosse. We drank the VO cuvee, according to the Dennis a non-dosé, and it almost feels like that, except for a surprising core of sweet fruit blending deliciously, as well as mitigating the oxidative notes. What a ravishing Champ the more I sipped it. Effortless to appreciate. The finish is long and very lovely. Selosse could be quite controversial and be often the subject of much geeky Champagne debate, until everyone starts sipping, then there is silence.

I had the honor of being served first so I didn't hesitate to fill my plate with the crisp, succulent lechon and other goodies such as pancit, fresh lumpia, and the avocado/mango/arugula salad. Amazing how everything came together. And here we go with the Pinot Noir part of the evening!

The 1990 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Beze comes from a tiny parcel less than acre in size. Even in riper years like 1990, it is always a more elegant, structured, high acid style of Chambertin that makes it such a very long aging wine. This vintage is still an infant, but I enjoyed its rose petal, cherry perfume, its brilliant, energetic fruit that kept unfurling.

An immortal 1990 was the Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos de Corton from magnum. The nearly 3-hectare parcel at the top of hill of Corton is a Faiveley monopole and has been a family possession well before the appellation system was created in 1930. A muscular wine of depth and power that's even more pronounced in this 1990 vintage. Decanted, it was definitely drinkable but still hiding in its shell. Like the Groffier Beze another infant. Why do we keep opening infants?! We should drink a 1928 Vosne-Romanee Les Gaudichots, instead, next time. Or so I dream.

Well, finally, the third Red Burgundy was a bit more mature. Apparently Maison Coron Pere et Fils still exists, but this negociant perhaps is more well known to Burgundy collectors for various Burgundies they produced from exalted vineyards during the 1930s through the 1960s. Their 1957 Musigny from a pristine bottle was still youthful, quite dark in color with hardly any sign of bricking and flavors that were fully intact. A difficult growing season, Henri Jayer's notes on the vintage said: "The acidity was high with very little substance. Thin and lacking good texture, these wines did not capture the attention for very long." Clearly, the 1957 Musigny was chaptalized, as I expect every wine in this vintage must've been, and it's evident on the nose and palate. Though the nose lacked the Musigny intensity, the wine was savory and imbued with the bright energy of Chambolle.

Steve, happy and satisfied with the food and wines, as his three ancestors in the background gazed at the goings on approvingly.

While at the other end of the table Tania has broken into an infomercial demo of her latest gadget, enthralling the girls who totally ignored the magnum of Faiveley in front of them.

Cupcake time! Tania made them and they were so irresistible, many times more satisfying than store bought versions.

By this time I wished I had a second stomach. But. Can't. Resist. Dessert. And. 1958. Port.

It's only appropriate that Vintage Port was very good in 1958. Port was my Damascene wine moment, it made me consider wine seriously for the first time. I think I was 18.  I've never had Tuke Holdsworth before and, apparently, the company had centuries of history in Oporto. This was again pristine and drinking very good--typical 1958, on the lighter side, almost like a Vintage Tawny, but darker in color, of course. Its fruitiness was lovely, the freshness--a hallmark of the year--was perfect.

 

The banana turon, a popular Filipino snack, is a native, peasant take on the Spanish turron, which is totally different and was a favorite imported treat of well-to-do families in Old Manila. The banana turon mimicks the Spanish turron's sweet filling and, instead of being covered by a thin layer of wafer, is wrapped in rice paper. I love banana turon and so I asked my brother to pick up some from a Filipino restaurant.

And so here is the lineup of wines we drained during the evening. I almost forgot to mention, Sandy brought a magnificent bottle of 1986 Chateau Rausan-Segla, Margaux, a very good year in Bordeaux's left bank. The nose was a bit subdued, but this was very classic Margaux, soft and velvety, with a sweet, fleshy fruit.

Evenings and celebrations like this night remind me with each bite, with each sip, and with every laughter that the world is fleeting. It's best to make the most out of life.