Tender Crabs at the 'Loin

I've been obsessed with eating crabs since I was a child. Maybe it's instinct or perhaps I was an otter in a previous life. Whenever I hear there's good crab to be had some place, I'm there. Last night we were in a prime neighborhood for crabbing. San Francisco's Tenderloin neighborhood is crowded with Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Thai immigrants who also love eating crabs. It is reputed that  Kim Thanh Seafood Restaurant in the gritty neighborhood's safer reaches near Union Square serves the best crab in the city. I'm always suspicious of such claims, but my interest was peaked. Is this place crab heaven? I'd even settle for something close to it.

The wait for a table to free up was a tease. I lusted at the prodigious tanks teeming with mouthwatering crustaceans. The crabs looked ripped and moved about with grace. And my eyes widened even more at the sight of the large spot prawns floating behind the glass, their legs doing tiny scissor kicks. At that moment I knew the schlep to the Tenderloin was worth it.

 

Coincidentally, the La Paulee celebration was going on at about the same time in New York. To join the celebration remotely, I brought a white Burgundy, a modest 2010 Pierre Matrot Bourgogne Blanc made by the brilliant Thierry Matrot in Meursault, where the original La Paulee is held every November soon after the harvest. A perfect wine with the crab and all the other dishes we ordered. Sharp, mineral and bone dry, it has very good body and depth for a Bourgogne. At just $20 always overachieving, and perfect for a casual place like this.

Our whole crab order arrived on a large plate already broken down in pieces, even the tomalley was scooped out of the shell ready to just be put in the mouth. Seemingly crispy fried, the menu described the crab as salt-baked. Indeed there's no glistening oiliness. This is a well-cooked crab and very tasty, full of sweet meat. Flavorwise it is not on the same level as Thanh Long's but a much better value at about $30, compared to Thanh Long's almost $50 price for a whole crab.

However, the plate of garlic noodles we ordered was disappointing, lifeless with a dominating taste of cooking oil. A far cry from Thanh Long's famous garlic noodles.

Good restaurants have overlooked gems on their menu, overshadowed by the signature dishes. At Thanh Long's I find it's the New Zealand green-lip mussels served with garlic rubbed crostini. At Kim Thanh, on this night at least, the huge spot prawns outperformed the crab. This was the largest spot prawns I've laid my eyes on. I just had some a few days before, but I can't let the opportunity for these godzilla prawns pass us by. They may not be this size next time. I insisted on ordering just a half-pound sampler fresh from the tank. They were stuffed with juicy sweet, firm meat. Several sips of the Matrot white Burgundy went down beautifully with it.

Buy this wine! Bourgogne Blanc, Pierre Matrot 2010 $20.00

Kim Thanh Seafood Restaurant

607 Geary Street

San Francisco, CA 94102

415.928.6627

Donnhoff Riesling and Crab

Yesterday was the official start of the 2012 California Dungeness crab season. I had the strong urge to celebrate this local crustacean tradition by heading to the great roasted Dungeness crab joint, Thanh Long in the Outer Sunset. I've been coming to this Vietnamese restaurant since the late 1980s, when it was still a tiny hole in the wall. Back then the Outer Sunset was so remote and obscured by the fog (it still is) that there was no reason to trek there except to dine at this restaurant. Thanh Long's foresight to set up shop in this bleak location proved to be genius. People from everywhere, including Hollywood celebrities, were drawn to its insanely good crab and garlic noodles, helping anchor the Outer Sunset's trendy food scene today.

Much as I look forward to my Dungeness crab season pilgrimage to Thanh Long, I also wanted to road test the 2011 Donnhoff Riesling Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg that just arrived at the store this week. A brilliant wine in any vintage, it is supremely gorgeous in 2011, a vintage hailed as one of the greatest in Germany. Almost dry, it has a superb elegance that downplays its richness. A perfect Riesling with the buttery Dungeness crab and the decadent garlic noodles.

Helmut Donnhoff said during harvest that the 2011 fruit was some of the best he has ever seen. Of course, no one should doubt the words of the master. But those looking for proof will certainly find it in this Riesling that he crafted from the Leistenberg vineyard. I'm glad it arrived just in time for crab season.