James Laube's Market Theory

I read a bizarre blog posted on 3rd September by the Wine Spectator’s California wine critic, James Laube. In it he makes the point that it is the consumers’ buying power that decides which style of wine dominates. He seems to be vague in elaborating which wine style happens to be popular right now, but then slips in his narrative something about “riper, fuller-bodied wines became en vogue in the 1990s”. And, if I may add, is still going strong. Thanks to him and his magazine for doling out big points to wines of this style.

So what I do find bizarre in the blog post is not the revelation that the popularity of a wine style may be consumer-driven, but that there was no accounting at all of the influential role he and his magazine play in the market. Like Pilate, it almost seems like he was washing his hands off the popularity of wines that are “superripe” or “overripe” or however this style of wine is referred to in the blog, explaining that this is completely the work of consumers. That consumers vote with their dollars, and that “as long as winemakers are selling out their wines and people are endorsing those styles with their dollars, there isn’t any incentive to change.”

Geez, I’ve been fooled all along then. I suppose if Laube scores Kosta Browne 80 points the Pinot would still sell out at ever-rising prices. And come time the Wine Spectator announces its Top 100 Wines of the Year it would just be plain coincidence that our phones would be ringing off the hook with consumers asking us about buying cases of wines in the list that they’ve never even tasted.

Toasting a Friend at Archipelago

I had dinner with friends recently to cheer up one of them who will be married very soon. We decided to check out Archipelago, a new restaurant near my neighborhood that features a deliciously eclectic menu of French, Asian, and American inspired dishes that has become a hot trend in restaurant cuisine these days. Check out places like Coi, Poleng Lounge, Unicorn, Ame, O Chame, Junnoon, Pres a Vi, and Va de Vi. It’s no surprise that these restaurants are favorite haunts of wine guys as their creative dishes lend themselves to exciting wine pairings.

We started with a brilliant bottle of André Ostertag’s 2004 Alsace Muscat Fronholz. Very lovely. It smelled of sweet gardenia and tasted of lychees and ripe pears, yet, tasted dry and quite crisp. I love how all these exotic flavors blend harmoniously, and also how they made my mouth water for food.

The Cava Brut “Selección Millennium”, Ondarre NV purchased from Bar Basseri in Pamplona during a recent trip to northern Spain was even better than I remembered it. A big Cava, rich, mouthfilling creamy goodness with lime peel freshness, crisp minerality, and classy elegance.

Richter’s 1995 Mosel Riesling Auslese Graacher Domprobst tasted and smelled of minerally slate and juicy ripe red apples and pear with herbal notes. Medium sweetness for an Auslese and well-balanced by crisp acidity. Vibrant and lengthy in the finish.

All of these whites went perfectly with plates of fresh, briny oysters; fried, crispy-skinned rolls of Philippines lumpia; Philippines ceviché-style kinilaw of raw tuna; and seared foie gras with sweet, tangy cranberry chutney.

For our first red, there was the perfectly drinking and still youthful 1996 Meursault Premier Cru Blagny Rouge “La Pièce sous le Bois”, Domaine Joseph Matrot. One of my favorite Burgundies. Fragrant earthy sous bois with red fruit scents. Elegant, soft black cherry, cinnamon flavors with notes of pepper and tea leaf. Juicy and fresh.

Next up was the 1993 Latricières-Chambertin, Maison Remoissenet Pere et Fils. Still a youthful wine, endowed with good concentration and rich tannins. Whiffs of asphalt and stones amidst the spicy red fruit scents. Earthy, black cherry flavors. Not profound, but sleek and powerful.

Burgundy lovers describe Côte-Rôtie as being somewhat Burgundian in character, so it was not a bad idea to follow up the Burgundies with the 1990 Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Gallet. The bouquet of this wine was intense and surreal, conjuring scents of lavender, tar, leather, roast beef, and crushed berries. Ripe, fleshy, and soft on the palate; not so profound but seductive, and definitely charming.

I enjoyed all these reds with a large plate of roasted rack of lamb that was fatty, juicy, and tender, done with an indeterminable sweet, spicy, earthy sauce that worked with the wines.

And to refresh the palate at the end we popped a bottle of 2000 Champagne Brut “Cuvée Angeline”, J. Lassalle that made me feel like starting dinner all over again. Toasty fresh-baked bread aromas. Creamy and mouthfilling, with well-focused, elegant fruity and minerally flavors that are as crisp as a thin sheet of ice.

I can’t think of any other Asian-themed restaurant with a full-time pastry chef, especially a brilliant one like Lourie Tatad who prepared for us a dazzling array of desserts and obliged us with a few special requests, including sugared churros accompanied by a dark liquid chocolate dip; slices of caramelized apples with a choice of sprinkles of marshmallows, spiced peanuts, and chocolate; and tiny nuggets of pure chocolate truffles.

During all the excitement we nearly forgot the bottle of 2000 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly “Silex”, Didier Dagueneau. Thank goodness, this was supposed to be the highlight bottle of the evening! Well, it didn’t disappoint, especially after an exciting array of wines. Rich, pungent flavors of stone fruits infused with fresh herbs, green vegetables, and minerals. The palate is persistent and crystalline, tasting of the rocks and minerals where the fruit came from.



Archipelago
1107 Howard Avenue
Burlingame, CA 94010
650.348.3888

Take a Load Off Fanny!

The Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne (CIVC) is mulling changing to lighter bottles to save on production and transportation costs, reported the FT yesterday.

If satisfied by the trials with lighter Champagne bottles now underway at G.H. Mumm the CIVC would approve use of them by producers.

I can't wait. Lighter Champagne bottles would reduce their shipping costs to our customers, but frankly it would be most beneficial to my aging back!

Chateau Montelena Sold to Cos: Would this Trigger More Euro Buying in CA?

The biggest news in winedom that broke out yesterday is the sale of the venerable Napa winery, Chateau Montelena, to top Bordeaux classed-growth estate Château Cos d’Estournel.

There is no announced sum for the transaction, but the credible rumor is $110 million—a whopping price even discounting the weak dollar versus the euro. In this regard, Chateau Montelena has pulled off its biggest shocker since winning the Judgment of Paris in 1976. But more significantly, I think, it is an indication that top Napa wine estates could have values almost as high, if not as high, as some of the great chateaux in Bordeaux.

Would this sale prompt more European winery acquisitions in Napa or in other points in California for that matter? Taken together with other high-profile European takeovers of US companies of late, there could be a rush of buying while the dollar remains cheap for the euro. Prime candidates could be long-established wineries with proven vineyards but in need of cash to refurbish aging facilities and vineyards.

But what’s in it for European buyers like Cos? Simply put, it is the still untapped potential in California wines, both in terms of quality and marketing. Thirty years after Judgment in Paris, the French are finally acknowledging that California wines are worthy to stand next to French wines, provided, of course, they are in charge.

Terry Theise Vintage 2007 Germany and Austria Tasting

I try to go annually to my local Terry Theise tastings, though I must say these usually crowded, elbow-to-elbow, hurried sip-and-spit affairs are a bit distressing. Still, I go. How can you not? Theise’s German and Austrian selections are impressive. How he assembled a thick portfolio of the regions’ great producers speaks about his insights.

Theise—if you’ve ever met the man, heard him talk, or read his off-beat wine catalogs that look more like ‘70s mimeographed anti-establishment handouts sprinkled with slogans and inspirational philosophical quotes (it’s probably what he wrote in his formative years)—is a charismatic dude. In fact this kind of off-beat, left-wing attitude has proven to be very effective in selling wines to the wine masses. Note the successes of Randall Grahm, Kermit Lynch, and Neal Rosenthal. Even savvy wine marketers as Jon Rimmerman of the popular Garagiste, as well as yours truly I confess also tries it, and a host of wine bloggers have styled themselves after this kind of radical chic wine talk. What exactly they (or we) are railing against I’m not sure. But, hey, this ‘tude sells wines!

I know I wouldn’t have time, and it’s ludicrous anyway, to systematically taste every wine being poured so I decided, as I often do in big tastings like this, to narrow it down to a few producers that I’m fond of and intend to buy, as well as other notable ones, to get an overall perspective of the vintage performance.

My quick overall impression is 2007 is an outstanding vintage for Austria and Germany. There many very good wines to like.


2007 Gruner Veltliner “Steinsetz”, Schloss Gobelsburg
Sweet, ripe, vibrant fruity flavors complemented by good spiciness, making the wine harmonious and delicious.
2007 Gruner Veltliner “Renner”, Schloss Gobelsburg
Intense, spicy citrus and pear flavors with very good minerality. Vibrant and long on the palate. Terrific!
2007 Gruner Veltliner “Lamm”, Schloss Gobelsburg
Creamy lemon tart flavors, well balanced, maybe a bit too understated, especially after the Renner.
(Poured in person by Ms. Maria Angeles Hiedler)
Ms. Hiedler contrasted the 2007 from the 2006 by saying that the former has greater acidity and minerality and drinks more easily, while the latter is creamier, sweeter, and has more alcohol.

2007 Grüner Veltliner “Löss”, Hiedler
One of my favorites in the tasting—its dry, elegant qualities; its well-perfumed, apricot flavors; and its unpretentiously modest price make it a wine to seek out.
2007 Gruner Veltliner Thal, Hiedler
Pure, fresh, and transparent flavors, with delicious, spicy, mint, ginger notes. Relaxed. Feels cool on the finish.
2007 Gruner Veltliner “November”, Hiedler
From 55-60 year-old vines in the Thal vineyard. Fermented long and slow for 5 weeks at 19 degrees C. 3.5 grams RS. Creamy mixed tropical fruit, mango flavors with hints of spice. The crisp acidity breaks the off-dry sweetness making it dry and vivid in the mouth. Very nice length. Full of surprise!
2007 Riesling “Urgestein”, Hiedler
Grown on slate. Exotic, tropical fruit scents. Honeyed fruit, with well-balanced acidity and very good minerality. Dry and deliciously textured.
2007 Riesling Steinhaus, Hiedler
Very vibrant, dry, elegant flavors with delicious notes of mint. Very nice intensity and length.
2007 Riesling Gaisberg, Hiedler
Floral scented. Creamy, round citrusy flavors with nice penetrating intensity.
(Poured in person by Mr. Christoph Schaefer)

2007 Mosel Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich #2, Willi Schaefer
Rich, sweet, a bit on the ripe side. Lacks definition for now.
2007 Mosel Riesling Kabinett Graacher Domprobst #16, Willi Schaefer
Perfumy, ripe, and expressively sweet, with lively freshness and transparency. Minerally. Long. A definite winner for me.
2007 Mosel Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich #9, Willi Schaefer
Tightest of the three Kabinetts. Sharp and firm, but still tasting rich, with good minerality. Long. Good, but not terribly exciting.
2007 Mosel Riesling Spätlese Graacher Domprobst #12, Willi Schaefer
Lovely floral perfume. Firm, intense ripe fruit concentration. Full of potential.
2007 Mosel Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich, Willi Schaefer
Very rich. Mineral. Brilliant acid balance. Intense, harmonious flavors. Lovely, lovely length and intensity.
2007 Mosel Riesling Auslese Graacher Domprobst #17, Willi Schaefer
Honeyed fruit bouquet accompanied by fleeting floral scents. Crunchy and mineral, and seductively unctuous. Vibrant, very good acidity. Unloads a lot of sweetness in the finish.
2007 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese Graacher Domprobst, Willi Schaefer
Not on the list and pulled from under the table by Christoph Schaefer just for the pleasure, so to speak. Honeyed, peach jam flavors; dense, unctuous; very rich, very sweet and concentrated. More honey, more peach, some pear and apricot. Very long and intense. Vivid and not cloying, as the acidity is not lost in all the richness. A wine to cellar for many years.
(Poured in person by Mr. Cornelius Dönnhoff)

2007 Nahe Riesling Kabinett Kreuznacher Kahlenberg, Dönnhoff
Grown mainly in loam. Light, delicate, good balance, drinking well even now, with a nice, lingering finish.
2007 Nahe Riesling Kabinett Oberhäuser Leistenberg, Dönnhoff
Grown in grey slate. Rich, mineral, vibrant, high acid, and vivid. A bit too edgy.
2007 Nahe Riesling Spätlese Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl, Dönnhoff
Planted in loamy soils. Good tension, rich, sweet, and graceful with very good acid balance.
2007 Nahe Riesling Spätlese Felsentürmchen, Dönnhoff
Planted in volcanic soils. Tight nose. Citrus, mineral, vibrant, ripe fruit. Intense in the mouth. Very long. Terrific!
2007 Nahe Riesling Spätlese Oberhäuser Brücke, Dönnhoff
From a mix of slate and loam soils. Very tight yet palpably very rich. Excellent ripeness matched with excellent acid balance. Outstanding but not as good as the Felsentürmchen.
2007 Nahe Riesling Auslese Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff
From grey slate soils. Rich, very sweet, very ripe, and well concentrated. Tight and compact right now but loaded with powerful extract.
(Poured in person by Ms. Eva Fricke)
2007 Eins Swei Dry “3”, Josef Leitz
The number “3”, drei in German, is a word play for dry. A dry, crisp, simple Riesling that’s light and quite delicious.
2007 Rheingau Riesling Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels trocken “Alte Reben”, Josef Leitz
Up to 70-year-old vines. Intense and creamy with citrus and mineral flavors. Very good length.
2007 Rheingau Riesling Rudesheimer Drachenstein “Dragonstone”, Josef Leitz
The beauty of this Riesling has always been its intensity and charming simplicity, altogether irresistible for the price. Sweet, juicy, vibrant fruit with very good acidity. Simple and delicious.
2007 Rheingau Riesling Kabinett Rudesheimer Klosterlay, Josef Leitz
Very good purity, rich and sweet, but good acid balance. Again, very nice length.
2007 Rheingau Riesling Spätlese Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz, Josef Leitz
Beautiful purity and balance. Flowing, graceful, sweet, vivid fruit. Harmonious. Long. Bullseye!
2007 Rheingau Riesling Spatlese Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck, Josef Leitz
Ms. Fricke offered this to taste first before the Schlossberg. Richer and sweeter than the Maggie, yet elegant and well-balanced, helped by its nice minerality.
2007 Rheingau Riesling Spätlese Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg, Josef Leitz
Opulent, very ripe, sweet citrus flavors with good minerality showing in the finish. Showing very rich and not much else, yet if it could be really interesting if it opens up to more things.

Rioja or Beer?

Euro 2008 Finals



Versus



The exciting finals of Euro 2008 get underway on Sunday pitting Germany against Spain. Two great football teams. Who will win? I'm torn. I would probably be more elated to see Spain win, which won the championship once back in 1964. Germany has won the tournament three times, the last time in 1996.

If Spain wins I'll be cooking paella for dinner that night, to be washed down by a nice Rioja. And if Germany wins, I'll be grilling sausages and drinking beer.

François Blanchard’s Brilliant Touraine

photo courtesy by François Blanchard

Last Friday night was another fun dinner at Day Break. Patrick made a delicious puréed cauliflower soup that was refreshing on that very warm night. I chose the entrée of pork roulade stuffed with raisins, wilted greens, and apple sauce, and afterwards finished off with a nectarine Melba with vanilla ice cream. Yumm! I could have gone for seconds.

The wines we drank were a mix of California, except for one—I’ll talk about this in a moment. Helen Turley’s 2000 Marcassin Alexander Mountain Chardonnay Upper Barn was fat and smoky, overripe with fading orangey flavors. The 2000 Pride Claret Reserve was in that opulent Napa style; sweet, chocolaty, and redolent of oak. The 1986 Johnson-Turnbull Napa Cabernet Sauvignon was drying out a bit, though still elegant and heavily infused with spearmint. Much better was the 1986 Laurel Glen Sonona Cabernet Sauvignon, which lacked bouquet but surprised us with its youthful concentration and grace. And finally for dessert, the 2004 Sine Qua Non Mr. K Straw Man Vin de Paille, a Semillon concentrate that must have contained a ton of sugar; unctuous and thick, with honey and fruity botrytised scents and lots of apricot flavors.

I really enjoyed the variety of these California wines, but the surprise wine of the night and one I have never tasted before was the Vin de Table de France, François Blanchard, a 2004 Sauvignon Blanc from the Touraine region of the Loire Valley made by François Blanchard of Château du Perron. Relegated to the lowest of the low, Vin de Table wines are not permitted to have any identity—no vintage, no varietal name, not even the region of origin on the label. It is practically death to any wine to receive such an ignoble designation. Yet, by force of personality this wine sparkled, figuratively and literally. Its ethereal fizz tickled the lips and popped on contact, leaving the palate with an almost off-dry, intense taste of cidered pear and apples with a tip of white pepper. Underneath the fruit was a layer of minerals that lingered solo in the long finish. I felt happy to have enjoyed this unique wine for the first time.

François Blanchard, Loire’s latest enfant terrible since Didier Daguneau, is a thirty-something local jazz musician in Tours. Just over five years ago he decided to resuscitate his family’s long-neglected tiny wine estate. He did little to modernize the winery, except to install electricity. The main improvement were the two manual vertical basket presses be brought in!

In the vineyard, farming has been organic from the outset (AB certified), though Blanchard doesn’t plow, and allow weeds to run almost amok in the vineyard and around the winery. His winemaking is totally artisanal and as natural as possible. He almost never uses SO2 and certainly never touches industrial yeasts or bacteria. He ferments in ambient cellar temperature without any temperature control in the vat. The cellar itself is maintained in ambient temperature with perhaps some adjustment if necessary. Blanchard believes that vinification should proceed with the season. Soutirage or racking is kept at the most minimum to preserve the carbonic gas created by the fermentation, hence minimizing the use of sulphites. I can tell you that after opening the bottle, the gas is intact and the wine is fresh and lively. The bottle, by the way, is enclosed in crown cap and sealed with a wax capsule.

Alas, François Blanchard’s wines are not exported. I would have to visit him soon, maybe next March and pick up a few bottles.