Thoughts and Prayers for François Chidaine

The heartbreaking news this week is the loss suffered by François Chidaine from violent hail storms that hit Vouvray, Montlouis, Chinon, and the Touraine area last Monday. It is reported that Chidaine lost all production this year in his Vouvray vineyards and 40% in Montlouis.

Chidaine's state of affairs has already been precarious even before this recent disaster. Last year's frost and cold and wet spring and summer resulted in a severely reduced harvest, particularly in Montlouis. The cumulative effect of these weather disasters is simply devastating for Chidaine.

Chidaine and his family are young, hardworking, and possess rare talent, not to mention they farm some of the greatest vineyards in the Loire. And so I'm positive that these setbacks are temporary and that they will be able to continue their wonderful work. Anyone who has enjoyed their wines I'm sure feels fortunate that Chidaine makes wines.

Rondo A La Turca

The plan was to rendezvous at Sai Jai for dinner in the Tenderloin district. All the excitement was deflated when we were informed that we can't open any wine because they have no alcohol license. Bummer. We were already seated so it was not easy to let--I had the famous grilled pork shoulder on the menu locked in my head--but we had to get up and move on. The thought of not having a drop of wine with dinner was an impossibility.

But where to go next?

My buddy, Henry, a true Boy Scout, suggested a Turkish place on the parallel block. He walked out to do a reconnaissance, then ten minutes later he called and got us a table, adding they have a TV with a futbol game on. Our brief hike traversing cannabis-infused Larkin made me even hungrier.

A La Turca is a relaxed, homey place, clean and expansive for the Tenderloin. The open kitchen consists of a commercial pizza oven, where they do the grilling and an electric gyro rotisserie behind the pastry and cold counter.

We ordered a variety of appetizers that disappeared quickly: baba ganouj, grilled carrots, fried egg rolls (sigara), grilled eggplant, etc. It seemed every plate was either slathered in or accompanied by a yogurt mint sauce. They were all delicious and had a cooling taste, which was good after a warm day.

My mains was a platter of the lamb shish (about $16). Tender and juicy chunks of grilled leg of lamb with rice pilaf and salad and, you guessed it, yogurt mint sauce.

All along I've been drinking the incredibly fresh and youthful 2007 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin. It is one of the greatest Vouvrays, equaled or surpassed only by Huet's Le Mont. A customer ordered our last 2 bottles, but before we could ship the order he called to cancel. He said a bottle he purchased in Georgia, imported by no less than Louis/Dressner, tasted dead to him when opened recently. He didn't want to risk it. Well, a customer's loss is my gain. This bottle that almost shipped to him was pristine, bone-dry, mineral, and perfect in every way. If anything, it was still infanticide to open it at this juncture. I'm going to keep the other bottle.


A La Turca Restaurant
869 Geary Street
San Francisco, CA
415.345.1011


Note: There's no more 2007 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin, but there's a few more of the 2009 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin. If people aren't fast enough I might usurp all or some of these bottles.

Sweet, Salty, Bitter, Spicy, and Sparkling at Grain

I was back at Grain last night, bringing with me two bottles to enjoy with the minimalist, eclectic menu. The Golden Star White Jasmine Sparkling Tea was a hit. Even Richard Ju, Grain's chef, enjoyed it, though he looked like he can use a stiffer drink as he was slammed this night.

Three simple, natural ingredients in this sparkling tea--organically-farmed silver needle jasmine tea, organic raw sugarcane juice, and carbon-filtered California Sierra mountain water--brewed and fermented together result in that elusive umami flavor. Pale and slightly frothy, its scent is intensely fragrant as brewed jasmine tea with a dollop of honey. Effervescent, light on the palate, and slightly sweet. Though no fruit was used in the blend, it shows not just complex tea flavors, but tart pear and apple as well! What a terrific drink with the biting, crunchy appetizers that Richard laid out.


Charred brussels sprouts in a sweet, citrusy fish sauce vinaigrette


Crisp oyster crepe in coconut sauce, topped with baby oysters, bean sprouts and sriracha


Chicken in turmeric and curry with pickled cucumber and onion


Baby back ribs with braised cabbage and fried potatoes

With the baby back ribs I drank the magnificent 2007 François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin, made from over seventy-year-old Chenin Blanc vines in the historic Prince Poniatowski estate. During Poniatowski's time he crafted this either in sec, demi-sec or moelleux, depending on the vintage. Since Chidaine I've only seen it dry.

Drier and purer than the 2005, and showing no trace of the exotic or of botrytis, this 2007 Vouvray exuded scents of white fruits, straw, and ginger candy. Bright, austere, very persistent flavors that highlight the wine's elegance and minerality. Its very vibrancy swallowed every bite of the ribs without resistance, making me reach for the glass with increasing frequency. A surprise pairing!