Bourgueil Stephane Guion -- Deals and Steals

This has opened up deliciously from just six months ago. If you drink it now you'd be happy. Or you can sit on it more and you'll be amply rewarded. The 2008 from magnum was glorious recently, but alas sold out.

From 40 to 85 year-old Cab Franc vines farmed organically since 1965. Vinified using natives yeasts, without additives and no addition of sulphites until bottling, when a small dose was applied.

We sell it for just $17! One of our Deals and Steals!


Bourguiel "Cuvee Prestige", Domaine Guion 2012 $17.00 (order here)

3 Effective Cab Franc Remedies for the Rougeardless

Around this time of the year a frenzy happens in wine geek nation. A feverish search for elusive bottles of that wine unicorn: Clos Rougeard. I'm at a loss on what spurred this phenomenon. But then again a similar rush used to occur several years ago with Wine Spectator's pronouncement of its Top 100.

If, alas, you happen to come up empty, there's no need to sulk. You are not alone, in fact, nearly all would end up with a Rougeardless search. And so I'd like to step in and offer 3 Rougeard remedies. Though they taste differently from Clos Rougeard, they work for me because they share Rougeard's pure and expressive flavors and natural winemaking approach.

I think these 3 wines should keep things interesting until you get lucky enough to land a bottle of Rougeard. And you might just feel content enough and forget about searching for the unicorn.

Sylvain Dittiere is the new, young rising star of Saumur. He worked closely with Thierry Germain, Anthony Foucault (son of Charly Foucault of Clos Rougeard) and even Marc Tempe of Alsace. He's a micro-negoce, producing small quantity of wines from vineyards that are organically farmed and planted with 30 to 40 year-old Cabernet Franc vines. He applies a non-interventionist approach to his winemaking, vinifying with natural yeasts and applying minimal sulfites. This superb release has a gorgeous concentration. Fleshy and dense, with wild, rustic, flavors of dark berries, earthy, game, mineral, and spice. It is as intense, complex, and expressive as a great Syrah from Cote-Rotie.

Saumur-Champigny, La Porte Saint Jean (Sylvain Dittiere) 2011 $29.00 (order here)


Sebastien Bobinet became the eight vigneron in his family when he took over his grandfather's 2-hectare vineyard, predominantly planted to Cabernet Franc, in Saumur-Champigny back in 2002. Young and wet behind the ears, he befriended Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard and trained with Olivier Cousin to learn the ropes. He learned fast. Today, 12 years later, he's a rising star and his small production is eagerly snapped up by customers in the few places his wines are sold.

Bobinet's wines are healthy and pure. He farms organically and vinifies with natural yeasts, avoiding additives and the addition of sulphites. He aims to express precisely the excellent
terroir of his wines. The 2013 Saumur-Champigny "Ruben" is 100% Cabernet Franc from a 1.25-acre parcel of the vineyard planted with 25-40 year-old vines. It is aged in larger barrels of 330 liters in the domaine's natural limestone cave. This is a wonderful Saumur-Champigny, floral-scented, juicy, and textured. Very youthful, yet luscious. A few more years and it will even be more irresistible.

Saumur-Champigny "Ruben", Sebastien Bobinet 2013 $23.00 (order here)


Imported by Beaune Imports, the same West Coast agent of Clos Rougeard. This, of course, is 100% Cabernet Franc from organically farmed vineyards in Bourgueil, very close to Saumur. It was the late Didier Dagueneau himself who recommended Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier to Beaune Imports when they were searching for a Bourgueil producer. Juicy, with intense Cabernet Franc fruit and supple tannins. Well balanced and expertly crafted by Pierre Gauthier, a true master of Loire Cabernet Franc.

Bourgueil Cabernet Franc "Joir de Soif", Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier 2012 $16.00 (order here)

Better in Magnum?

 

I was introduced to Domaine Guion's Bourgueil recently by tasting this magnum of 2008 "Cuvee Prestige" next its younger sibling, the current release 2012. The four-year age gap already shows the difference in maturity. The 2008 has evolved to gain more depth and flavor complexity. I can't wait to see how this magnum develops with some more age, that is if I can resist opening it!

Guion's Cuvee prestige is 100% Cabernet Franc from 40 to 85 year-old vines farmed organically since 1965. Stephane Guion vinifies using natives yeasts, without additives and no additon of sulphites until bottling, when a small dose is applied to safeguard the wine for its journey.

Domaine Guion was established by the Guion family in the 1950s in Bourgueil, in the middle Loire near Touraine. They were a pioneer in converting to organic farming as early as 1965. Today, the 8.5 hectare estate is run by Stephane Guion, who took over from his father in 1994. Their vineyards are all within Bourgueil, consisting of all Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Sauvignon is allowed by the appellation) ranging from 10 to over 80 year-old vines.

As I've discovered with this magnum, Domaine Guion is the source for pure, long-lived Bourgueil Cabernet Franc that age beautifully. Their wines evolve as long as a top Chinon or Saumur-Champigny, but at a bargain price.

Bourgueil "Cuvee Prestige", Domaine Guion 2008 1.5L Magnum $40.00 (check it out here)

Wine From Aveyron

Aveyron is in southwest France in the Midi-Pyrenee region next to Gascony, an eastern extension of South-West France. Old castles, stone walls, and ancient bridges--evidence of a once bustling region remain. Its hillsides have long been growing typical South-West grapes like Fer Servadou, Chenin Blanc, Negrette, Jurancon Noir, Portuguais Bleu, and the occasional Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. But much of the vineyards are now abandoned. Residents have left their impoverished villages for a better life up north in Paris.

Nicolas Carmarans is an Aveyronnais. His family, too, left Aveyron to open bistros and cafes in Paris. Nicolas is well known in Paris for re-opening in 1994 the historic Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie in the Latin Quarter, where famous French artists and photographers like Robert Doisneau frequently hanged out. He turned it into a wine bar serving food and featuring an extensive list of mostly natural wines. It was one of the first of its kind to open in Paris, over a decade before other natural wine bars followed suit today.

Nicolas Carmarans became close friends with many of his wine producers, and after learning much from them he decided in 2007 to return to Aveyron to make wines from the small plots that he was able to acquire and rent. He managed the cafe part-time but sold it altogether by 2012. Carmaran's wines are now highly sought-after not just in Paris but also in many European countries and, in particular, Japan.

In the US, Nicolas Carmarans' wines have only been seen in New York, specifically at Ten Bells and Chambers Street. However, I'm very pleased to say that outside of New York and in the entire West Coast Vineyard Gate is the first and only one to offer his wine!

The 2011 Averyron Red "Cuvee 12"--named for the French department number for Aveyron--consists mainly of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Fer Servadou. Most of the vines date back to 1960. Carmarans saved the plots from building construction and has farmed them organically and traditionally without wires. He doesn't chaptalize, or add any additives or use sulfites. He vinifies with native yeasts and without temperature control in vats and casks. Beautiful wine, luscious blackberry flavors, earthy, with Cabernet notes of pepper and herbs. The palate is well-balanced and the finish is long. The wine really grows on you and is hard not to keep sipping.

An amazing value for an awesome red made with meticulous, artisanal care and that is rare to find in the US.

Aveyron Red IGP "Cuvee 12", Nicolas Carmarans 2011 $25.00 (order here)

Not a Trick But A Treat--Devilishly Real Cabernet Franc

"It's better to make small real wines that fake great wines", said the famous oenologist Emile Peynaud. For the past 20 years Christine and Joel Menard of Domaine des Sablonettes have adhered to this principle, lovingly tending their small 13-hectare vineyard. They run their domain to very exacting standards, applying biodynamic methods, and as a result produce stunning, natural wines--vinifying only with wild yeasts and not chaptalizing or filtering. What they make are wines that are devilishly real.

I adore this 2010 Le Bon Petit Diable. 100% Cabernet Franc from 20 year-old vines planted in schist in the Anjou region. It's light, bright gushing with luscious red fruits. This is a most refreshing red to drink anytime of the year, but its bright, vibrant flavors make fall's hearty dishes taste even more delicious.


Vin de France "Le Bon Petit Diable", Domaine des Sablonnettes 2010

Olivier Cousin's Anjou Pur Breton

Support Olivier Cousin. No sham wines. Get the facts here.


Vin de Table Francais "Pur Breton", Olivier Cousin 2011 (click to buy!)

A Chicken, An Egg, and A Cab Franc at Roostertail

It was predetermined. Last night we were craving roast chicken and at the same time thinking of nothing else to imbibe but Cabernet Franc. Okay, we've made up dinner in our minds but where to go was the only thing to be figured out.

The answer popped in my head, placed there by the chicken gods, I presume. Roostertail in the Pac Heights. I've never been but it seemed right, particularly on this warm July night. There are not many nights one can go out in San Francisco in a t-shirt, last night was one of them.

Almost as soon as we sat down I ordered a plate of their chicken wings. As far as I can recall this is the greatest order of chicken wings I've ever had. I don't know what they put in it. There was a taste of olive oil and fresh coriander, so these aren't the Buffalo kind. It's not sweet or spicy or sticky as most plates of chickens wings are. It's different and it's good.

Where there is chicken there must be eggs. Having devilled eggs on the menu is brilliant for a chicken joint. An old-fashioned treat that's finding its way back on a few restaurant menus for the past several years. I find devilled eggs addicting.

The cob-shaped cornbread here is the real thing, served with soft butter on the side. Unlike typical cornbreads that are sweet and dense and muffin-like, this is crumbly and doesn't taste sweet at all.

The whole roast chicken comes out conveniently quartered. Mary's Chicken of Pittman Family Farms in the San Joaquin Valley, CA is the source. Tasty, though not the best-tasting chicken I've had. That distinction still belongs to Field to Family in Petaluma, CA.

But the salad was killer. A kind of modified cobb salad, without the dressing, and pitted black olives tossed in. This was simple and genius.

There are only three dessert options but I zeroed in right away on the chocolate chip bunt cake, an old-fashioned coffee cake, moist and really tasking like chocolate chip.

Every dish we ordered was demolished. And the new Loire Cabernet Franc I brought, the 2009 Domaie de la Paleine Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame helped everything go down deliciously. This is from the newest appellation in the Loire, the AOC was just granted in October 2009. La Paleine's new release is wonderful. A great summer red. Next time you're having roast chicken or pulled pork sandwich on a picnic, bring this gorgeous wine.

Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame, Domaine de la Paleine 2009 $21.00 (click to buy!)



Roostertail
1963 Sutter Street
San Francisco, CA

Best Cabernet Franc from Napa

While in Manila recently, I felt underdressed in shorts and t-shirt as I walked in the most plush wine store I've ever set foot in. It was straight out of the Tatler magazine or FT's How To Spend It. More like a Cartier store than a wine shop, its ultra-modern glass shelves housed mostly first-growth Bordeaux in various large formats with vintages dating back to early 1960s. The rest of the stock not Bordeaux were mainly Krug d'Ambonnay and Burgundies from Coche-Cury, Ponsot, Leflaive, and, yes, DRC. As I was buzzed in by the security guard I was greeted by a smiling trio of young female staff in dark suit uniform.

I thought, times have really changed in Asia, I don't think I could afford anything here. But my gaze stopped at a wall covered by several gleaming enomatic machines. I came closer to see what was being poured. Okay, so here's the affordable stuff, mostly second labels and petits chateaux. But wait, what's that at the far end? A Napa? A Cabernet Franc?! I didn't recognize the label. "World's End." "Against the Wind." The Bob Seeger hit!

I reached for a Riedel glass, punched a button, and let the enomatic dripped me a small pour. Wow! Glorious stuff! Perfumed, a touch floral, gorgeous dark concentration, biting tannins, and a spectacular long finish. I call myself a wine merchant based in the San Francisco Bay Area, an hour from Napa, but I've never even heard, let alone tasted, World's End before?! Okay, I'm impressed. I had to travel halfway around the world to discover this wonderful wine from my own 'hood.

When I got back to the States I fired an email to the World's End contact. The next day a response was waiting in my inbox from the sales director whose name was Jean-Pierre (JP), and he was contacting me not from Napa but from St.-Emilion in Bordeaux.

World's End is the latest wine project of the celebrated British wine tycoon Jonathan Malthus. In 1994 after making a pile in the energy industry and taking up winemaking Malthus and his wife moved to St.-Emilion and started purchasing several vineyard properties. One of these estates he established into Le Dome, one of the pioneering cult vin de garage or garagiste wines. Soon this was followed by others, all producing less than 400 cases a year (Le Dome has now ballooned to a 1,000 case production): Vieux Chateau Mazerat, Les Asteries, and Le Carre--all in St.-Emilion. These are some of the most sought-after, hardest to find, super-expensive Bordeaux these days. In the 2009 vintage Parker scored Le Carre 97 points, Les Asteries 98 points, Vieux Chateau Mazerat 97+ points, and Le Dome a whopping 99 points. All these Bordeaux are produced by Jonathan Malthus and his team.

Le Dome is the obvious inspiration for the World's End Napa Cabernet Franc Against the Wind. The cepage is very similar. Le Dome is 80% Cabernet Franc, apparently the wine with the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc in St.-Emilion and, perhaps in all of Bordeaux. On the other hand, the 2009 World's End Napa Cabernet Franc, the debut vintage, also consists of 80% Cabernet Franc and the remaining 20% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit comes from vineyards in Sugarloaf Mountain in southeastern Napa and in Coombsville. Neil Whyte, the Scottish head winemaker at Le Dome and all of Jonathan Malthus' estates, flew with Malthus into Napa to take charge of making the World's End wines. He and Malthus made sure the Napa wines are made in the same quality standards as their prized St.-Emilion wines.

Being wowed by the 2009 World's End Napa Cabernet Franc "Against the Wind", I must say Malthus has the golden touch. He has produced a seriously fine wine that parallels his success in Bordeaux. And he's done it on the first release! But here's the clincher, whereas his 2009 Le Dome St.-Emilion sells for several hundreds dollars a bottle if you can even find one, his 2009 Napa Cabernet Franc we are introducing at just $39! Do not miss this opportunity to purchase this extraordinary debut vintage and start building a vertical collection.

Napa Cabernet Franc "Reserve--Against the Wind", World's End 2009 $39.00 (Click to buy!)