Luscious Jura Pet'Nat From Octavin

The light sparkling wine called petillant naturel--nicknamed pet-nat or pet'nat--is in my view the best drink for summer. Lighter and fruitier than Champagne, a great pet'nat is everything, and fun, too. It is the perfect bbq wine, picnic wine, patio wine, pizza wine. Pet'nat should be your bff, especially in the summer.

Pet'nat is naturally made, without the fuss of Methode Champagnois. The wine is simply allowed to finish fermentation inside the bottle, rather than in the tank or barrel, trapping the CO2 gas that's produced by fermentation inside the bottle, thus creating a fizzy wine. The amount of fizz or pressure is about half that of Champagne, hence pet'nat is delicate, oftentimes off-dry, and usually delicious and refreshing. The natural flavors of grape juice are still fresh and lively. pet'nats are fun and easy to enjoy.

The best pet'nat I've come across these days is the one made by Domaine de l'Octavin in the Jura. Called "Foutre d'Escampette", it is 100% Chardonnay grown in the La Mailloche vineyards in Arbois. La Mailloche is reputed to be one of the best sites for Chardonnay in the Jura. Recently, the Domaine the Marquis d'Angerville from Burgundy bought a parcel there.

Octavin is owned and run by the young winemaking couple, Alice Bouvot and Charles Dagand. They farm their vineyards organically and biodynamically. No sulfites or any additives are applied to their wines. They also don't fine and filter, so sediments are always present in their wines, a proof of purity. This pet'nat was vinified whole-cluster and bottled while still fermenting. Delicate with just 11.5% alcohol, yet its off-dry fruity flavors are delicious and brimming with fresh energy.

Domaine de l'Octavin is small but their wines are highly sought after and appear on wine lists of some of the most progressive wine bars and restaurants in Paris and elsewhere in Europe, including Noma in Copenhagen (voted best restaurant in the world), and in Japan.

I'm pleased to say Vineyard Gate is one of the few stores in the country to regularly stock Domaine de l'Octavin wines.


Vin de France "Foutre d'Escampette", Domaine de l'Octavin NV $29.00 (order here)

One of My Favorite Reds From Arbois

One of my favorite reds from Arbois is that little box of chocolates from Hirsinger. I always take one home with me filled with an assortment of squares that they have that day. I really can't leave Arbois without it. But only one little box, as Hirsinger is about as expensive as vin jaune.

During a recent stop at Hirsinger I encountered the man himself, Chef Edouard Hirsinger, fourth generation head of his family's pâtisserie, in the flesh wearing his MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) tricolor striped collar. He looked jolly, and was happy to shake my hand and to put his arm around my shoulder like a long-time friend. Then, of course, he offered me a sample. Oui, Chef!

Resistance is futile at Hirsinger. A treat for the senses. The colors explode, the scents allure, and my mouth waters. Chocolat vivant!

Being in the center of Arbois the wine capital of Jura, Hirsinger is big on pairing chocolate and wine. Here, Hirsinger recommends Banyuls with their chocolates. Chocolat vivant!

However, Banyuls could be a bit hard to find, so a half-bottle of LBV Port such as from Niepoort is just as excellent with chocolates. And if you still can't find an LBV an overripe California Pinot Noir would do, especially one that I just sipped the other night, a 16% alcohol 2004 Aubert Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir--a special, if not spendy, Valentine's treat.

Hirsinger Chocolatier
38 Place de la Liberté
F-39600 Arbois
France

A second store location is in Tokyo in The Ginza.

Fall Means Matsutake and Michel Gahier's Les Follasses Chardonnay

Appetizer tonight. I grilled sliced matsutake mushrooms and plated them with a light drizzle of ponzu. Grilling the matsutake released its forest floor aromas. And wouldn't you know it, Michel Gahier's brilliant 2010 Chardonnay Les Follasses was the perfect drink.


Arbois Chardonnay "Les Follasses", Michel Gahier 2010 $23.00 (click to buy!)

Jacques Puffeney's Cuvée Sacha: Savagnin-Chardonnay Classic Jura Style

Jacques Puffeney's extraordinary Jura white, Cuvée Sacha, blends Savagnin and Chardonnay together, aging them in foudre for 2-3 years without topping up, thus allowing the wine to develop exposed to air in his cave.

The result is classic Jura style, a powerful white that's pungent and complex as well as crisp and refreshing. Usually the Cuvée Sacha is from a particular vintage, but the current release is even more unique as the vintage for the Savagnin and Chardonnay are different. Puffeney rarely makes this kind of non-vintage version. It is packed with freshness and energy. As a friend remarked, "I am convinced that this wine will pair with ANYTHING." He's right.

I have fun testing this Jura's versatility by putting it next to dishes not easy to pair with wine. The other day I found myself at an Izakaya (Japanese pub) ordering a grilled tomato yakitori-style simply seasoned with sea salt. It was a stunning pairing. Another revelation in the Sacha's versatility and taste.


Arbois Blanc "Cuvée Sacha", Jacques Puffeney NV $30.00 (click to buy)

En Cave

Basically, I want a case of everything!

My kind of wine shop. We sell many of these producers, too. Let's see. Jura: Gahier, Puffeney, Macle, Octavin. Alsace: Ostertag. Champagne: Larmandier-Bernier. Bourgogne: Tollot-Beaut, Roumier (sometimes), Jobard, Pavelot, Thevenet. Rhone: Jamet, Gonon, Richaud, Gramenon. Beaujolais: Metras.