Schiava Is Good

This heartwarming wine from Bolzano in the South Tyrol is made by Heinrich and Elda Mayr from their small parcel of old Schiava vines. It's a bit Burgundian, but perhaps more reminiscent of a full-bodied Morgon, with a sweeter fragrance, as well as  brighter and more spicy in flavor.

I brought a bottle of this 2009 Elda Rosso with me recently to the Sardinian restaurant La Ciccia and it was friendly with almost every dish I ordered. But it was most insane with the baby octopus stew with the mild, pulsing heat of the pepperoncino calabrese of the tomato sauce. I was happy drinking a full, luscious Vermentino di Sardegna with it, yet the Schiava was a revelation. Another delicious aspect of the dish would have escaped me were it not for this brilliant wine.