Tasting Panel: July 24-25 New California Reds

Unlike other wine growing regions, California does not focus on any particularly grape varietal, but instead produces every major grape varietal on the planet. Here are threewines, each one from a different grape varietal and grown in different winegrowing regions in California.

1. Russian River Pinot Noir "Amber Ridge Vineyard", Connor Brennan Cellars 2005 ($26.00 suggested)
Small-lot production from a single vineyard that is highly regarded source of Pinot Noir in Russian River and is planted with the 777 clone. 14.5% Alcohol.

2. Dry Creek Valley Syrah, VJB Vineyards 2003 ($34.00 suggested)
Barrel-aged for 18 months in neutral American oak. 14.5% Alcohol.

3. El Dorado Zinfandel, VJB Vineyards 2003 ($34.00 suggested)
Aged for 18 months in 100% American oak. 15.5% Alcohol.

Judgment/Comments:
Russian River Pinot Noir "Amber Ridge Vineyard", Connor Brennan Cellars 2005
Thumbs Up: 67%
Thumbs Down: 33%
Pros: Nice fruit, smooth finish, yummy, big, brawny, good value, big for a Russian River Pinot, a bit sweet
Cons: Very light, acidic, somewhat one-dimensional

Dry Creek Valley Syrah, VJB Vineyards 2003 ($34.00 suggested)
Thumbs Up: 40%
Thumbs Down: 60%
Pros: Good body, forward, decadent, smooth tannins, good balance
Cons: Not much going on, harsh, overpriced

El Dorado Zinfandel, VJB Vineyards 2003 ($34.00 suggested)
Thumbs Up: 40%
Thumbs Down: 60%
Pros: Big, nice flavors, highly extracted
Cons: Hot, vegetal, no nose, overpriced

Conclusion:
1. Both the Syrah and Zinfandel from VJB Vineyards were deemed pricey by most drinkers for the quality they offer.

2. Despite the thumbs down votes, many still found the big, extracted, high alcohol, style of the Syrah and Zinfandel attractive. Had the price been significantly less, say close to half, it is likely that many would find these a good purchase.

3. The Pinot Noir from Russian River was well-liked by most drinkers mainly for its forward fruit and fuller style.

4. However, a good number of drinkers dissented on the taste of the Pinot Noir, finding its taste too light, which is surprising considering its big, full-bodied style. One suspects that, popular as Pinot Noir is today, many palates still prefer the big bruisers, like Syrahs and Zinfandels.

Randy Dunn Speaks On High Alcohol Wines

Folks in the wine trade are increasingly speaking out against high alcohol wines, particularly California wines. Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards today released the following statement to the media:

"It is time for the average wine consumers, as opposed to tasters, to speak up. The current fad of higher and higher alcohol wines should stop. Most wine drinkers do not really appreciate wines that are 15 -16. +% alcohol. They are, in fact, hot and very difficult to enjoy with a meal. About the only dish that seems to put them in their place is a good hot, spicy dish.

I don’t believe the average person is so insensitive to flavors and aromas that they must have a 15% Cabernet, Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir to get the aromas and flavors. Influential members of the wine press have lead the score chasing winemakers/owners up the alcohol curve and now I hope that it soon will lead them down.

Winemaking is not really much different than cooking. The end product should be enjoyable to consume - not just to taste. Hopefully most who read this don’t think it’s a novel concept that we should be making wines to consume. Would you want to sample a soup, meat dish or other course that is so overpowering that you cannot enjoyably finish what is in front of you? These new wines are made to taste and spit – not to drink.

This is all linked to my views on the ever evasive and vanishing terroir; the subtleties of terroir in wines have been melted together in a huge pot called “overripe” or the vogue “physiologically mature” grape. Gone are the individualities of specific regions, replaced by sameness – high alcohol, raisiny, pruney, flabby wines. Likewise, the descriptor “herbaceous” was often used in a positive sense when describing Cabernets. Now it is the kiss of death. Voluptuous – I do remember seeing that only occasionally, but not on the aroma/flavor wheel.

So I would like the consumers to take the lead for a change, rather than being led. Ask for wines that are below 14% when you are out to dinner. The reactions are fun, but the results are not good for United States wines. The sommelier usually comes back with a French or New Zealand wine. On the restaurant level, high alcohol wines have reduced the number of bottles sold. It is very simple arithmetic; % alcohol times volume equals satisfaction. If % alcohol goes up, volume must go down for satisfaction to stay the same – or else we all get plastered.

Consumers – wake up and get active. Reviewers -please at least include the labeled alcohol percentage in all your reviews, and try to remember that not everyone is spitting."

Tasting Panel: July 17-18 Avalon Winery's Wines for the People

Here are three different wines from Sonoma-based wine producer, Purple Wine Company. This producer owns Avalon Winery label where it focuses on producing value Cabernet Sauvignon. A new label in its portfolio is Blue Jean.

1. California Red Wine, Blue Jean Winery NV ($11.00 suggested)
A new label from the Purple Wine Company of Sonoma. Most likely Cabernet Sauvignon-based. 13.5% Alcohol.


2. California Cabernet Sauvignon, Avalon Winery 2004 ($11.00 suggested)
The blend consists of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Syrah, 4% Merlot, and 1% Tempranillo mainly from vineyards in the Central Coast (Monterey, Santa Barbara) and from Mendocino and Napa. 13.7% Alcohol. 3.66 pH. 5.5 grams total acidity.

3. Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Avalon Winery 2005 ($18.00 suggested)
A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Syrah, 6% Merlot, and 1% Petite Sirah. Aged in a combination of French and American oak. 13.9% Alcohol. 3.89 pH. 7.5 grams total acidity.


Judgment/Comments:
California Red Wine, Blue Jean Winery NV
Thumbs Up: 89%
Thumbs Down: 11%
Pros: Fruity, good everyday wine, good label, balanced, rich, fun, easy
Cons: Bitter

California Cabernet Sauvignon, Avalon Winery 2004
Thumbs Up: 67%
Thumbs Down: 33%
Pros: Structured, more sophisticated than Blue Jean, smooth, smoky
Cons: Off-taste

Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Avalon Winery 2005
Thumbs Up: 56%
Thumbs Down: 44%
Pros: More interesting, bold flavors, good fruit and tannins
Cons: Pricey, tart, good but not worth the extra bucks

Conclusions:
1. From the good turnout and positive overall response to these wines, it is clear that drinkers of fine wines now find low-priced California wines attractive. One can't this was the case just five years ago.

2. The lowest-priced, non-vintage red "Blue Jean" was the overwhelming favorite. Drinkers found it fruity but balanced and a good value everyday wine. Further, the blue jean label contributed to a hip, fun image which drinkers found attractive.

3. The two Cabernet Sauvignons, while well-liked did not particularly excite drinkers. They were seemingly perceived as somewhat stodgy, typical California Cabs.

Tasting Panel: July 10-11 Martin Ranch Story

A new challenge for the discerning tastes of our tasting panel. Here are four different wines from a well-established Santa Cruz Mountains wine producer called Martin Ranch. This producer makes both estate wines under the "Therese Vineyards" label and negociant wines under the "J.D. Hurley" label. The winemaking approach is interesting as it involves a long elevage and aging in a combination of French, American, and Hungarian oak before bottling and release.

1. Santa Clara Valley Merlot "J.D. Hurley", Martin Ranch 2004 ($22.00 suggested)
From Santa Clara Valley vineyards on the eastern side of Santa Cruz Mountains. 100% Merlot. Aged 21 months in 50% new and 50% neutral French, Hungarian, and American oak barrels. 600 cases produced 15.6% Alcohol.

2. Santa Clara Valley Cabernet Sauvignon "J.D. Hurley", Martin Ranch 2003 ($26.00 suggested)
97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. From a combination of 60% Santa Clara Valley vineyards and 40% estate-grown Santa Cruz Mountain grapes. The first release of this wine. Aged 32 months in a combination of new, 2-year-old, and neutral French, Hungarian, and American oak barrels. 800 cases produced 13.9% Alcohol.

3. Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon "Thérèse Vineyard Reserve", Martin Ranch 2003 ($40.00 suggested)
Made from estate-grown grapes in the southern tip of the Santa Cruz Mountains. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc aged for 28 months in a combination of new, one-year-old, and neutral French oak barrel. 200 cases produced 14% Alcohol.

4. Santa Clara Valley Syrah "Thérèse Vineyard", Martin Ranch 2004 ($30.00 suggested)
100% Syrah from two vineyard sources. Aged 21 months in 50% new and 50% neutral French and Hungarian oak. 400 cases produced 14.7% Alcohol.

Judgment/Comments:

Santa Clara Valley Merlot "J.D. Hurley", Martin Ranch 2004
Thumbs Up: 60%
Thumbs Down: 30%
Pros: "Fruity yet firm... plenty of extract... good power... nice for the price... good oak... alcohol is not obvious... good nose"
Cons: "Hot, alcoholic... disappointing taste... didn't taste like Merlot"

Santa Clara Valley Cabernet Sauvignon "J.D. Hurley", Martin Ranch 2003
Thumbs Up: 60%
Thumbs Down: 40%
Pros: "Good nose... good balance... not too strong, decent"
Cons: "Light... not enough fruit... not bold... bitter finish"

Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon "Thérèse Vineyard Reserve", Martin Ranch 2003
Thumbs Up: 80%
Thumbs Down: 10%
Pros: "Fruity... good tannins... reserved but good fruit and tannins... soft and nice fruit... good finish... complex, aging potential... good structure"
Cons: "Too reserved.. pricey"

Santa Clara Valley Syrah "Thérèse Vineyard", Martin Ranch 2004
Thumbs Up: 100%
Thumbs Down: 0%
Pros: "Fruity spicy, good personality... great Syrah flavors... good aromatics and flavors... good length... drinkable... aging potential... well balanced"
Cons: none

Conclusions:
1. Very enthusiastic turnout for this tasting, mostly likely because of the attraction of a new Santa Cruz-based wine producer.

2. The aggressive, robust style of the J.D. Hurley Merlot surprised drinkers, especially those who don't usually drink Merlot, and the style appealed to most of them.

3. The smoother, softer, somewhat light style of the J.D. Hurley Cabernet Sauvignon was unexpected, especially coming after the Merlot. This style also pleased many drinkers.

4. The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon though popular was seen as being a bit pricey.

5. The overall favorite was the Syrah. This wine's flavors and price point appealed to most drinkers.

The Rarest Rosé

The commune of Riceys in the southern portion of the Champagne region has been producing for centuries tiny quantitites of the world's most rare rosé. Said to be the favorite of Louis XIV, this rosé is so rare that even in Champagne, let alone in France, few have heard of it. To my knowledge none is exported.

I was visiting Champagne last March and I took my buddy Robert with me. He decided to stay around a little longer after I've finished my appointments to do some R & R and hunt down this rare Rosé de Riceys. He got lucky as he found one wine store that stocked a few bottles of it. The proprietor was quite impressed at Robert for even asking for it.

Robert lugged the bottle back home and when we decided to have a bite together one day before watching a Giants ballgame he brought the bottle of Rosé de Riceys with him. This was probably the only bottle of this rosé in the country.

We sat at the bar of Coco 500, Loretta Keller's newly renovated hotstpot in the south of Market. We dug in a couple of the small plates that were both superb. One was the COCOmole “taco” ($4.00), a refined take on mole made with braised beef cheeks on crisp taco shells. Every piece was delicious. The other plate was a version of the Provence standard, a brandade served with fennel crackers ($6.00). Another homerun!





Both small plates were superb with the particular taste of the Rosé de Riceys. Made of 100% Pinot Noir, this rosé is made by macerating the Pinot until the taste of Riceys is achieved, a procedure that requires not only a skilled winemaker but also one who knows the precise taste of Riceys.

The rosé has a deep cherry nose, very earthy and Pinot-like, it reminded me of the Pinot Noirs I've had from Alsace. The initial taste was of black cherries then layers fanned out revealing fresh herbs and lavender. Very delicate yet intense on the palate. Substantial for a rosé, hence the wine was a perfect accompaniment to our small plates.

Coco500
500 Brannan Street
San Francisco, CA
415.543.2222

Tasting Panel: June 26-27 Spanishin Regional Wines

This time the following three regional Spanish wines were featured:

Rias Baixas Albariño, Olegario 2005 ($26.00 suggested)
From Spain's Galicia region in the northwest Atlantic coast. 100% Albariño grape. 12.5% Alcohol.

Navarra Rosado "Grand Feudo Rose Wine", Bodegas Julian Chivite 2005 ($19.00 suggested)
100% Grenache from estate-grown grapes in Navarra in north-central Spain above Rioja. 12.5% Alcohol. The grapes were macerated for 24 hours to allow the skin color to bleed prior to fermentation.

Castilla y Leon "Sardon de Duero Rivola", Abadia Retuerta 2003 ($20.00 suggested)
Made from estate-grown grapes in Sardon de Duero just outside Ribera del Duero in central Spain. 60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon aged fro 12 months in a combination of French and American oak. 13.5% Alcohol


Judgment/Comments:
Rias Baixas Albariño, Olegario 2005
Thumbs Up 88%
Thumbs Down 13%
Pros: Nice fruit, acidity but pricy, refreshing, good summer wine, good
balance, mineral finish
Cons: None

Navarra Rosado "Grand Feudo Rose Wine", Bodegas Julian Chivite 2005
Thumbs Up: 50%
Thumbs Down: 50%
Pros: Nice fruit, dry, interesting
Cons: Harsh, uninteresting, bland, tart, flat, simple

Castilla y Leon "Sardon de Duero Rivola", Abadia Retuerta 2003
Thumbs Up: 100%
Thumbs Down: 0%
Pros: Great balance, nice balance, complex. Bordeaux-like nose, easy drinking,
nice tannins, worth the price, smoky, robust, spicy, will age.
Cons: None

Conclusions:
1. The Albariño was deemed wonderful but pricey at a suggested price of $26, an average price for a California Chardonnay. Drinkers appear to have an expectation that Spanish whites should be low priced regardless of potential quality. In contrast, the same can not be said of white wines from California or France.

2. The Rosado was the least favorite, apparently suffering from being too light, too dry, and somewhat pricey.

3. The Rivola was liked by everyone.

Guess the Champagne at Longoria-Parker Wedding

(photo from AP/Michel Euler)

Waiters bringing out the Champagne at the wedding ceremony of "Desperate Housewives" star Eva Longoria and NBA star Tony Parker in Paris today... Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut, no doubt.